We all have to start somewhere. It’s the one experience every surfer shares — yet it’s the one that seems oh so easy to forget. We asked surfer/writer Lisette Drew to remind us of how it happens. In the series finale, Lisette faces an unexpected challenge…
Part One: “The Most Ecstatic Feeling” | Part Two: “The Biggest Wave I’d Ever Surfed!” | Part Three: “All You Need Is Three Waves”
Indonesia is every surfer’s dream destination. So, when I was invited on an all-girls surf charter adventure, I didn’t hesitate to jump onboard.
I had no expectations for this trip, and lucky I didn’t. There was barely an itinerary. All we knew was that it was eight days of sailing and surfing through northern Indonesia, starting in Raja Ampat before crossing over to Morotai.
Raja Ampat is renowned for its picturesque islands, its thousands of species of fish and its clear calm waters. What it’s not famous for is its waves, and the breaks we aimed to surf were uncharted – so unknown they’re on no surf map anywhere.
The gentle and less-surfed waters of northern Indonesia — what a place for your first overseas surf trip. Photo: Cait Miers
Packing my trusty 6’8” thruster, padded with bubble wrap and bikinis, I headed off on my first surf trip to Indonesia.
I enjoyed 24 hours in Bali where by chance on a street in Uluwatu, I bumped into the myth, the man, the legend shaper – Jim Banks. He handed me a purple Ultra Glide twin fin to take with me on my trip, and then the adventure began with a 2:00 am flight to a remote island, where excitement outweighed exhaustion. As I waited anxiously for my board bag to appear from the plane, I met the women who’d be on board with me.
Each woman on this adventure brought their own unique vibe to the group. Andy Kovszun and Cait Miers were captains of the surf trip. Andy brings a decade of experience as a model and content creator, while Cait is recognised as a top surf photographer. Both experts in their chosen fields, they use trips like these to collaborate with brands and inspire others to do the same.
“Somewhere in the middle of it all”… Lisette, possibly wondering where’s the next surf spot. Photo: Miers
Pro surfer and vlogger Elle was rarely seen without a camera in her hand, and had a wealth of knowledge for surfing unfamiliar waves. Patricia was there to promote her swimwear line Tan Madonnas, while her good friend Abigail was keen for her break into surf content creation, as was Signe, whose excitement for the trip was infectious. Britt’s calm nature was well needed, while Janey just wanted to unwind.
I sat somewhere in the middle of it all, excited to experience new surf breaks while quietly observing how influencers operate.
Yes, this trip wasn’t just about surfing; it was also about content creation. Phones and cameras were always at hand, with even our charter manager, Matthias, bringing a drone for footage.
The first activity set the tone: a group photoshoot jumping into the ocean from our boat. After a jump from the deck, we were encouraged to leap from the roof. Slippery feet and nerves made me hesitant, but I joined in. We had to climb up on the steel bracing, and be careful not to step on the solar panels. On the count of three we jumped, but I slipped, somersaulted awkwardly into the water and re-surfaced to worried faces.
It’s not really a boat trip till you jump off. Photo: Miers
I was unhurt, but the incident bruised my ego. Imagine getting injured on a surf trip before even surfing!
Our first surf together was spent gliding along mellow waves over a shallow reef break, a good way to warm up for the waves to come. We were taken out to the break on a small dinghy with our surf guide, Chris. Surfing alongside my new surf buddies revealed our skill levels and camaraderie. I may not have felt as experienced as the rest of the group, but I could hold my own in the water and cheers could be heard for every wave caught. Soon our sunburn started to show, so we spent the rest of the day taking it easy, getting to know each other over sunset margaritas.
Above and below: “At the heart of it all, I just wanted to surf.” OK Lisette, you got your wish!
And so did everyone else. Photos: Miers
The second day brought queasiness as we sailed the seas. Arriving at our surf spot, we found the waves smaller than expected, so we geared up for a photoshoot, coordinating outfits and boards for drone shots while Cait directed us. Later, Chris, Janey and I paddled out for a surf on high tide. Although left-hand waves weren’t my strength, I adapted and savoured the feeling of surfing an unknown break. It was precious to share the waves with just Janey and Chris. It felt like we were real surf explorers.
Beyond surfing, we immersed ourselves in local culture. On the third day, we visited a village, playing marbles and hopscotch with children whose laughter rippled out across the island. It triggered a memory of SurfAid’s Make A Wave challenge, surfing daily to support remote surf communities such as this. Watching kids paddle on big purple plastic esky lids, using them as surfboards, reminded me of the simple joys of surfing.
Morotai kids. Photo: Miers
Day four emphasised the content-driven nature of the trip. We visited a national park with ancient rock formations, yet no one cared about the history of the place, everyone was focused on capturing paradise for brands.
The turquoise waters and emerald green peaks were picture perfect, but I felt torn. I wanted to share my love of surfing with everyone, but was becoming a surf influencer the right way to go about it? I wasn’t sure I was cut out for it. Swimming with blacktip sharks and scaling jagged mountains brought thrills, but posing on cliff edges for the perfect shot made me question what we were risking our lives for.
Lisette, loose among the black-tips. Photo: Miers
Influencing isn’t simple, occasionally it involves you being surrounded by sharks. Photo: Miers
At the heart of it all, I just wanted to surf.
Surfing peaked on day five at a new break, with fat waves rolling in steadily. Although my first few take-offs were clunky, I quickly fell into a rhythm with the ocean. Surfing remote, pristine waves felt magical, reaffirming my love for it.
Yet the following day, I struggled. Seasick and facing steeper waves than usual, I hesitated. The group encouraged me to stay out there, Elle even put her surf coach hat on and gave me a comforting pep talk, but nerves got the better of me that morning.
By day seven, the swell had well and truly arrived, with eight-foot barrels. Watching Chris and Elle drop into waves was exhilarating, but I knew my limits and stayed on the shoulder to watch. Later, revisiting the left-hand break from the day before, I caught my best wave yet – a long, smooth ride where I glided up and down the face, finally achieving the flow I sought.
In the afternoon, we surfed another new break but encountered surfers who weren’t thrilled to share waves. I was just planning to sit out there for a while to get the feel for the waves, so I put my hand up to go out first with Britt who was super keen. We paddled out and said hi, but the unfriendly surfers turned their backs on us. We got the message that we weren’t welcome and didn’t paddle for any waves for the first few sets.
Then a surprise wave seemed to come out of nowhere. I paddled as hard as I could towards the wave but I didn’t quite make it and the wave broke on me. I didn’t know up from down, and by the time I was able to get my head above water, I could feel my foot slip from my legrope, leaving me boardless amidst a relentless set. Wave after wave I got smashed. I had to use the rest of my strength to swim my way back out to the boat. Luckily, Chris was kind enough to paddle over and retrieve my board.
Learnings: Surfing doesn’t always go your way.
This is true no matter how good you get. You’ll be suffering wipeouts and getting caught inside by freak sets for as long as you’re a surfer. Yet it always seems to turn around. Lisette lost her board and got slammed; next day she had the best surf of her life.
The final day was unforgettable. Despite warnings of hectic conditions, I paddled out to surprisingly manageable right-handers. It felt like Currumbin Alley. It felt like home. Confident from the first wave, I surfed for four hours straight, finally feeling like I belonged. Surfing alongside these incredible women strengthened my passion for surfing and the bonds we’d formed over the last week.
Reflecting on the trip, surfing remote waves and immersing myself in the beauty of Indonesia reminded me why surfing is so special both at home and overseas. Surfing for me now has become more than just a hobby, surfing has changed the trajectory of my life. Every surf teaches me something new, whether it’s about the power of the ocean or my own strengths.
Learnings: One day you’ll find your line.
Lisette found it halfway through this trip. She’d gone there partly to watch how surf content is created, and suddenly flashed: she just wanted to surf. From this flowed a vision that may help carry her through the rest of her life — the complex suddenly made simple.
When it’s got ya, it’s got ya. Lisette with boat buddies. Photo: Miers
On my birthday last year, I caught a party wave with a 70-year-old woman. As we paddled back to the lineup, she smiled and said, “Thank you for sharing the wave.” Her gratitude struck me deeply, revealing the beauty of connection that surfing brings.
In that moment, I saw my future – a vision of staying connected to the ocean, riding waves with joy and sharing moments of stoke with others. It wasn’t just a shared wave, it was a reminder that surfing is a lifelong journey.
Lisette Drew 